Guo Pei presented her couture runway show "An Amazing Journey in a Childhood Dream" during the Mercedes-Benz China International Fashion Week, where she was awarded the Best Dress Design Award.
Inspired by the fantasy and joie de vivre of fairy tales, the gowns and jackets in this collection invoke a sense of youthful reverie, and the soft shades of fabric — pastel pinks, crystal blues and sunny yellows — represent sweetness, romance, mystery and luxury. Created by using intricate fabric-folding techniques that resemble the art of origami, these garments were also influenced by the standing ruffs and snug-fitted doublets of 16th-century Spanish court dress.
The concept for this ensemble was developed after a visit to the Musée de l’Armée in Paris, where Guo Pei was inspired by Napoleon Bonaparte’s uniforms and assorted garments worn during the Napoleonic Wars. The point collar, half-belt and regimental buttons on the back suggest a military style, while the embroidered floral motifs, multihued crystals and soft silk skirt project femininity.
This gown, titled "Dajin," meaning "magnificent gold," is embroidered with silver, copper and 24-karat gold thread using a variety of methods. One such style, known as "Zardozi," is a technique derived from the Persian word for gold (zar) and embroidery (dozi).
Inspired by a visit to the Musée de l’Armée in Paris, "Dajin" took a team of artisans nearly two years and more than 50,000 hours to create. Almost a decade after it was completed, in 2005, the dress was prominently featured in The Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition "China: Through the Looking Glass."
Xu Jidan, Miss Universe China 2012, won first place in the National Costume category wearing this resplendent gown and headpiece, hand-painted to replicate the depth of color and brushwork of imperial blue and white Chinese porcelain. The color palette of this traditional pottery, also known as fine "china" — named for its country of origin — became widely used during the 14th century with the export of cobalt from Persia.
Guo Pei "intended to demonstrate the changing process of the glazing color of the porcelain vases" like the ones on her grandmother’s dining room table during her childhood, she said. "I adore them so much because blue and white represents the humble character of the Chinese."
This ensemble, designed to incorporate a traditional Chinese women’s qipao-style bodice, took nearly 10,000 hours to create and was on view in The Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition "China: Through the Looking Glass" five years after it was completed.
This gown is adorned with hundreds of vintage silk flowers, made in a manner similar to those that were produced for the Chinese imperial palace during the Qing dynasty. Ruling from 1644 to 1912, the Qing dynasty was the last to have ascendency over China before Mao Zedong cofounded the Chinese Communist Party and incited the Cultural Revolution that marked Guo Pei’s childhood. The silk flowers and floral embroidery on the accompanying robe are representational of peonies, the national flower of China.
Although Guo Pei grew up during this time of social upheaval, her grandmother, who was born in 1901, would recount stories of sartorial luxury that existed prior to communism.
"She would tell me about how her silk clothes felt when she touched them, when I had only had clothes made of cotton," Guo Pei said. "About how flowers were embroidered onto her dresses."
In order to pay homage to this more opulent era, Guo Pei’s team spent nearly 50,000 hours restoring these silk flowers, which were discovered in a deserted factory.
This imperial yellow cloak, a color once reserved exclusively for the Chinese emperor, was worn by Rihanna at The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala Benefit in 2015 during the opening of "China: Through the Looking Glass," an exhibition featuring designs by Guo Pei.
The intricate detail of the embroidery and embellishments ornamenting this garment required nearly two years to complete. The finished cloak weighs more than 50 pounds and called for assistance from three people so Rihanna could walk up the stairs of the red carpet.
This seminal moment for Guo Pei established her reputation as a member of the fashion elite and confirmed her prestige as a modern messenger of China’s rich cultural heritage since the establishment of her atelier, Rose Studio, in 1997.
Opening during an era of reform and an abatement of the strict communist policies that shaped her childhood, Guo Pei ventured on her own.
“I am delighted that now I own my realm…[and] every detail of the superior customization can be achieved by our team,” she said.
This exquisite gown was inspired by the Chinese mythological phoenix known as "fenghuang," which represents female virtues, such as honesty, grace and beauty.
From the shoulder piece to the long plumage of feathers cascading down the body and train, this garment is evocative of a bird in flight.
When depicted with a dragon, the symbol for masculinity, the fenghuang and dragon symbolize the emperor and empress, husband and wife, or the union of yin and yang.
Guo Pei was inspired by the natural beauty of the pearl for this luxurious bridal ensemble, part of a wedding gown line designed so that Chinese women may wear garments that express their national identity. Guo Pei also sees her bridal collection as a way to connect with women other than those who are famous.
"I meet all kinds of celebrities in my work, but what really touches me is designing for normal people," she said. "It is probably something they will have once in a lifetime, and they will treasure it for a lifetime, and that design will bring them happiness."
The "Garden of Soul" collection was created in collaboration with MAC Cosmetics and unveiled the day after The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala Benefit in 2015. The clothing line served as the inspiration for a limited-edition capsule makeup collection Guo Pei designed with MAC.
"The theme of the story is about happiness and the soul garden," Guo Pei said. "In the garden of van Gogh near Paris, I saw the blue flowers. This flower, to me, is what's in my inner garden. They're the flowers of happiness."
The "Garden of Soul" collection was created in collaboration with MAC Cosmetics and unveiled the day after The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala Benefit in 2015. The clothing line served as the inspiration for a limited-edition capsule makeup collection Guo Pei designed with MAC.
"The theme of the story is about happiness and the soul garden," Guo Pei said. "In the garden of van Gogh near Paris, I saw the blue flowers. This flower, to me, is what's in my inner garden. They're the flowers of happiness."
The "Garden of Soul" collection was created in collaboration with MAC Cosmetics and unveiled the day after The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala Benefit in 2015. The clothing line served as the inspiration for a limited-edition capsule makeup collection Guo Pei designed with MAC.
"The theme of the story is about happiness and the soul garden," Guo Pei said. "In the garden of van Gogh near Paris, I saw the blue flowers. This flower, to me, is what's in my inner garden. They're the flowers of happiness."
The "Garden of Soul" collection was created in collaboration with MAC Cosmetics and unveiled the day after The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala Benefit in 2015. The clothing line served as the inspiration for a limited-edition capsule makeup collection Guo Pei designed with MAC.
"The theme of the story is about happiness and the soul garden," Guo Pei said. "In the garden of van Gogh near Paris, I saw the blue flowers. This flower, to me, is what's in my inner garden. They're the flowers of happiness."
The "Garden of Soul" collection was created in collaboration with MAC Cosmetics and unveiled the day after The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala Benefit in 2015. The clothing line served as the inspiration for a limited-edition capsule makeup collection Guo Pei designed with MAC.
"The theme of the story is about happiness and the soul garden," Guo Pei said. "In the garden of van Gogh near Paris, I saw the blue flowers. This flower, to me, is what's in my inner garden. They're the flowers of happiness."
The "Garden of Soul" collection was created in collaboration with MAC Cosmetics and unveiled the day after The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala Benefit in 2015. The clothing line served as the inspiration for a limited-edition capsule makeup collection Guo Pei designed with MAC.
"The theme of the story is about happiness and the soul garden," Guo Pei said. "In the garden of van Gogh near Paris, I saw the blue flowers. This flower, to me, is what's in my inner garden. They're the flowers of happiness."
The "Garden of Soul" collection was created in collaboration with MAC Cosmetics and unveiled the day after The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala Benefit in 2015. The clothing line served as the inspiration for a limited-edition capsule makeup collection Guo Pei designed with MAC.
"The theme of the story is about happiness and the soul garden," Guo Pei said. "In the garden of van Gogh near Paris, I saw the blue flowers. This flower, to me, is what's in my inner garden. They're the flowers of happiness."
The "Garden of Soul" collection was created in collaboration with MAC Cosmetics and unveiled the day after The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala Benefit in 2015. The clothing line served as the inspiration for a limited-edition capsule makeup collection Guo Pei designed with MAC.
"The theme of the story is about happiness and the soul garden," Guo Pei said. "In the garden of van Gogh near Paris, I saw the blue flowers. This flower, to me, is what's in my inner garden. They're the flowers of happiness."
The "Garden of Soul" collection was created in collaboration with MAC Cosmetics and unveiled the day after The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala Benefit in 2015. The clothing line served as the inspiration for a limited-edition capsule makeup collection Guo Pei designed with MAC.
"The theme of the story is about happiness and the soul garden," Guo Pei said. "In the garden of van Gogh near Paris, I saw the blue flowers. This flower, to me, is what's in my inner garden. They're the flowers of happiness."
The colorful, intricate embroidery and beading on the neckline and waistband of this jumpsuit outlines two blue dragons and rolling waves surrounded by clouds. Chinese dragons traditionally symbolize dominance, particularly control over water, rainfall, typhoons and floods.
The dragon is also a symbol of power, strength and good luck, thus the Chinese emperors used the dragon to represent imperial sovereignty and vigor.
"It is so common to see the design involving dragons in Beijing," Guo Pei said. "Such totems impressed me deeply when I was a child. I fell in love with this element and will yield to this in my design unconsciously. It is my favorite design element."
Guo Pei was selected to design the hostess dresses at the Beijing 2008 Olympic medal ceremonies.
"I am truly lucky to become a good example for my Chinese peers and a pride of my country," Guo Pei said.
The columnar, high-neck silhouette of the qipao, which inspired this collection, became popular with celebrities and Shanghai elite in the 1920s, but declined during the Mao era. Known for vibrant colors and intricate embroidery, the qipao is now reserved for formal occasions, or as a uniform like the ones on display.
Guo Pei was selected to design the hostess dresses at the Beijing 2008 Olympic medal ceremonies.
"I am truly lucky to become a good example for my Chinese peers and a pride of my country," Guo Pei said.
The columnar, high-neck silhouette of the qipao, which inspired this collection, became popular with celebrities and Shanghai elite in the 1920s, but declined during the Mao era. Known for vibrant colors and intricate embroidery, the qipao is now reserved for formal occasions, or as a uniform like the ones on display.
Guo Pei was selected to design the hostess dresses at the Beijing 2008 Olympic medal ceremonies.
"I am truly lucky to become a good example for my Chinese peers and a pride of my country," Guo Pei said.
The columnar, high-neck silhouette of the qipao, which inspired this collection, became popular with celebrities and Shanghai elite in the 1920s, but declined during the Mao era. Known for vibrant colors and intricate embroidery, the qipao is now reserved for formal occasions, or as a uniform like the ones on display.