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Unapologetic Lines
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Description

Mini dress with asymmetric sleeves and geometric oval cutout

Materials
Wool jersey
Year
1971

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Houndstooth two-piece ensemble

Materials
Wool
Year
1957

For a short period in 1945, Cardin worked for the House of Schiaparelli and House of Paquin before joining Christian Dior, where he is credited with contributing toward the development of the New Look in 1947. In 1950, he embarked on his own line and quickly became a rising new star of Parisian couture. This ensemble illustrates Cardin's design aesthetic of impeccably tailored clothing composed of sculptural shapes with signature details. The gathered, blouson-back of the jacket is re-interpreted in the geometric pleated Computers collection coats of the 1980s.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Knee-length coatdress with button detail

Materials
Wool
Year
1957

Cardin's first atelier was originally located on Rue Richepanse (renamed Rue du Chevalier de Saint-George), and moved to the famed Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where the designer launched his first couture collection in 1953. The next year, Cardin opened a boutique called Eve, followed by Adam for men in 1957. The black button detailing and sculptural neckline of this ivory wool bouclé coat dress anticipate the geometry and circle motifs found in Cardin's looks from the 1960s.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Suit with zipper details and round hat

Materials
Wool
Year
1966

Travel has always been a source of design inspiration, and after seeing Nehru jackets in India, Cardin adapted their hip-length, collarless form into his men's fashions of the 1960s. The jacket design subtracted collars, cuffs and lapels, creating an iconic look that the designer adapted in grey wool piped in black for the Beatles in 1963. Cardin's innovations for men’s traditional suiting introduced neck scarves instead of ties, and turtlenecks in the place of button-down shirts.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Overcoat with geometric closure and miniskirt

Materials
Wool and vinyl
Year
1969

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Cocktail dress with conical breasts

Materials
Wool
Year
1966

Cardin traveled to Japan for the first time in 1957, where he was made an honorary professor at the Bunka Fukoso design college and taught three-dimensional pattern cutting classes. During his visits to Japan, he became acquainted with model Hiroko Matsumoto, who became his muse and followed him to Paris in 1962. While diversity is now more customary in fashion magazines and on the runway, this was not the case in the 1960s. Matsumoto became internationally famous as the first Japanese top model and was featured in the fashion press of the day. The signature image for "Pierre Cardin: Pursuit of the Future" presents Matsumoto in this look in from a 1966 fashion pictorial.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Cap-sleeved dress with geometric details

Materials
Double-faced jersey and vinyl
Year
1968

While the actual Space Age originated with the launch into space of Sputnik in 1957, the fashion space age developed on the Parisian catwalks in the early 1960s with Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges. The idea of exploration defined the era, and Cardin responded by pushing the boundaries of materials and silhouettes.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Ensemble of jumpsuit with zipper detailing, turtleneck, codpiece and hat

Materials
Synthetics, leather, metal and wool felt
Year
1967

This look shows the evolution of Cardin's futuristic style for men during the 1960s. The jacket and trousers on look No. 3 have become integrated into a jumpsuit with asymmetrical zipper, leather detail at collar and arms, and the addition of a codpiece. The styling of Cardin's jumpsuit and wide neck takes cues from space suits worn by American astronauts and Soviet cosmonauts of the period.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Mini dress with green facing, oval pockets and straw hat

Materials
Wool and straw
Year
1968

This look is an example of the mod look that originated in London's swinging '60s style scene, which quickly became all the rage in the U.S. and around the world as young people adopted the look. The mod (modern) look features a minimalist aesthetic with clean lines, geometric shapes and bold color.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Cocktail dress with fan disc sleeves

Materials
Synthetic stretch jersey
Year
1990

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Mini dress

Materials
Wool jersey and wool felt
Year
2015

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Trapeze dress with circle cut-out detail

Materials
Wool jersey and vinyl
Year
2016

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Ensemble of bib miniskirt with bodysuit

Materials
Neoprene and wool
Year
2016

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

'Cosmocorps' bodysuit with tunic and geometric belt

Materials
Double-faced jersey and vinyl
Year
1967

The landmark Cosmocorps collection incorporated minimalist dressing for both men and women. The collection stylistically resembles the futuristic costume designs found in television and films of the period such as "Star Trek" and "2001: A Space Odyssey." The unisex garments are accessorized with vinyl belts and helmet-inspired felt hats. Experimental use of materials like vinyl and synthetic fabric were combined with traditional fashion materials like wool and metal for this collection.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Kinetic mini dress

Materials
Plastic and vinyl
Year
1968

This kinetic mini dress features 128 individually printed images of Cardin's signature circle (here in bright green) held together by monofilament and vinyl straps at the shoulders with green sunburst button detailing on front and back. The lenticular effect creates the illusion of depth and ability to change as the dress moves with the wearer. This look was inspired by op art movement of the 1960s that explored the effects of color, line and pattern on the eye.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Carwash dress

Materials
Wool crepe
Year
1969

The iconic Carwash dress is one of the most coveted and hard to find pieces by Cardin. With an empire waist and heavy-weight fringed tendrils secured at the hemline, the garment harkens back to the flirty flapper dresses of the 1920s. The fringed panels create a swaying effect as the wearer moves in this mini dress.

 

SCAD Permanent Collection

Description

Long panel dress with red bodysuit

Materials
Wool and jersey
Year
1970

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Panel skirt and vinyl necklace worn over a ribbed body stocking

Materials
Wool and vinyl
Year
1968

Cardin was fascinated with space exploration. He visited NASA in 1971 and was the first civilian to put on the very spacesuit worn by American astronaut Buzz Aldrin during the Apollo 11 moon landing in 1969. This ensemble exemplifies Cardin's space-age style, complete with a bright red wool bodystocking, fringed skirt with signature circle at the ends and matching design for the vinyl necklace. For the final touch, a Plexiglas bubble headpiece resembling an astronaut's helmet is added for maximum futuristic effect.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Sleeveless mini dress with geometric pattern

Materials
Wool muslin
Year
1968

In 1966, Cardin produced a couture collection of simple shift dresses patterned with targets, squares, diamonds and circles in bold colors. The central black wool diamond is pieced within a larger yellow diamond that stretches the length of the dress from collar to hem.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

'Target' mini dress

Materials
Wool muslin
Year
1966

From his collection of simple shift dresses, the Target dress became an icon of its time and mirrors the visual and aesthetic of an op art painting. This design pieces a black wool circle off-center at the waistline, which is encircled within two larger areas of orange and red in the ivory body. This dress was featured in all leading fashion magazines of the time.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Jumpsuits with orange and yellow facing and geometric cutouts

Materials
Wool jersey
Year
1972

These jumpers were designed for the 1972 Munich Olympics.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

'Computers Collection' overcoat with geometric pleats and disc hat

Materials
Wool
Year
1980

This wool coat from 1980 was an angular reinterpretation of Cardin's tailored coats from the late 1950s. The deep, triangular fins that project from the back and sleeves of this coat were inspired by computer technology. The fins create a wave effect as the wearer moves.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

'Bubble' coat

Materials
Double-faced wool
Year
1968

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

'Computers Collection' jacket with geometric pleats and disc hat

Materials
Wool
Year
1980

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Ensemble of asymmetric jacket with elongated panels, trousers and beret

Materials
Wool crepe and vinyl
Year
1992

This collection of colorful, asymmetrical, fringed wool jackets over straight trousers were accessorized with hats to echo the jacket hemlines.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

'Origami' coat with circular sleeves, turtleneck, trousers and hat

Materials
Wool
Year
1981

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Ensemble of coat with scalloped edge, Capri pants and hat

Materials
Wool
Year
1990

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Two-piece suit with anatomical appliqués

Materials
Leather and wool
Year
1984

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Cocktail dress with button detailing and coordinating belt

Materials
Jersey and leather
Year
1970

This cocktail dress was owned by the Mexican actress and singer, María Félix (1914-2002). Félix is considered one of the most important female figures of the Golden Era of Mexican Cinema. Her film career spanned more than three decades and included 47 films made in Mexico, Spain, France and Argentina. In fashion, Félix was dressed by the most prominent designers of the time, including Christian Dior, Givenchy, Chanel and Cardin, and was an ardent collector of antiques and jewelry.

 

Courtesy of Nicolas Felizola, Private Collection

Description

Draped cocktail dress held by a double knot

Materials
Synthetics
Year
2017

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Long evening gown with geometric sleeve

Materials
Silk
Year
1992

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Two-tone evening gown with parabolic skirt

Materials
Silk
Year
1990

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Asymmetric evening dress in stretch velvet with rhinestone circle sleeve ornamentation

Materials
Velvet with Swarovski rhinestones
Year
2000

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Evening dress with accompanying necklace; Evening dress with metallic collar

Materials
Wool jersey and metal
Year
1968

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Deep V-neckline jumpsuit embellished in sequins with necklace

Materials
Velvet, sequins and rubber
Year
2010

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Asymmetric evening gown with velvet sheath and ruffle ornamentation

Materials
Tulle, embroidered silver leaf, stretch velvet and horsehair
Year
1995

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Lace evening gown with cascading ribbon apron

Materials
Wool and silk taffeta
Year
1977

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Long satin evening dress with jeweled halter neck and pleated bolero jacket

Materials
Silk, synthetics and Swarovski crystals
Year
2013

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Suit with cummerbund

Materials
Stretch synthetics
Year
2013

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Deep neckline evening dress embroidered with sequins and bow detail

Materials
Tulle, sequins and satin
Year
2017

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Evening dress with ribbon ornament and parabolic effect cape attached

Materials
Synthetic jersey
Year
1991

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Evening gown with parabolic bustle and translucent paillette necklace

Materials
Blended synthetics and sequins
Year
1992

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Long satin evening dress with jeweled halter neck and pleated bolero jacket

Materials
Silk, synthetics and Swarovski crystals
Year
2013

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Mini dress with lace ruffles

Materials
Horsehair and synthetic blend
Year
1991

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Evening dress in printed harlequin motif

Materials
Silk
Year
1981

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Trapeze dress with geometric application

Materials
Synthetic
Year
2017

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Mid-length dress with geometric application

Materials
Synthetic
Year
2017

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Mid-length dress with geometric inlays

Materials
Synthetic
Year
2017

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Cocktail dress in kinetic print with parabolic effect sleeves and matching beret

Materials
Jersey
Year
2009

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Boxy suit with one-button closure

Materials
Synthetics
Year
2013

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Jumpsuit with parabolic effect with ornamental discs on zipper pull and body

Materials
Synthetics and metal
Year
2010

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Evening dress with parabolic effects and flower detail on shoulder

Materials
Silk jersey
Year

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Batwing-sleeve jumpsuit with necklace and bracelets

Materials
Silk jersey and plastic
Year
2010

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Ensemble of ribbed jacket and trousers

Materials
Vinyl
Year
2010

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Mini dress with parabolic skirt

Materials
Synthetic
Year
1983

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Long 'Cardine' dress

Materials
Synthetics
Year
1966

The designer marketed his own fabric, Cardine, beginning in 1966. The fabric is a variant of Dynel fiber and may be heat-pressed into precise geometric shapes. Instead of piecing fabric or using appliques to create the geometric motifs in his garments, Cardine allowed the forms to be pressed directly into the fabric.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Evening dress with zig-zag parabolic effects and flower detail on shoulder

Materials
Silk jersey
Year
2012

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Iridescent evening gown with parabolic effects and choker collar

Materials
Stretch jersey and Swarovski rhinestones
Year
2008

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Butterfly cocktail dress

Materials
Lurex
Year
1993

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Metallic jacket and miniskirt ensemble

Materials
Leather and sequins
Year
1985

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

'American Football' parabolic jacket, trousers and mask

Materials
Leather and wool jersey
Year
1991

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Disco jumpsuit

Materials
Metallic printed stretch jersey
Year
2010

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Sleeveless A-line dress with metallic and geometric accents

Materials
Lurex and leather
Year
1966

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Sequined cocktail dress with parabolic sleeves

Materials
Synthetics
Year
2016

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

'Cardine' mini dress

Materials
Synthetics
Year
1968

The designer marketed his own fabric, Cardine, beginning in 1966. The fabric is a variant of Dynel fiber and may be heat-pressed into precise geometric shapes. The stiff fabric ensures that the form suspends from the shoulders rather than draping over the body. Actress Lauren Bacall was a Cardin devotee, and the styling of this look is based on a vintage photograph of her in this ochre dress.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Ensemble of metallic jacket with disc sleeves and tapered trousers

Materials
Vinyl and wool
Year
1994

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Ensemble of tunic with geometric design applications and trousers; trapeze dress with geometric design applications

Materials
Neoprene, vinyl and wool jersey; Neoprene and ultra-suede
Year
2016

The silhouettes of this collection pay homage to the designer's archive and introduce an innovative use of neoprene. Neoprene is a synthetic rubber that is flexible, durable and water-resistant, and best known for its application in scuba suits. Cardin has used Neoprene in both men's and women's designs, including tunics, dresses and shoes. This collection debuted in September 2016 at the Yellow River Stone Forest National Geological Park, Baiyin, China. The unique patterns of the limestone mountain 'forest' provided a dramatic backdrop for runway show and marked 38 years since Cardin's first collection launched in China.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Micro-sequined 'moon' handbag

Materials
Synthetics
Year
2008

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Necklaces with cascading pearls

Materials
Plastic
Year

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Geometric wristlet handbags with metal handles

Materials
Leather
Year
2012

In addition to his contributions to fashion, Cardin is a design innovator whose pursuits extend to accessories, costume design, jewelry, product design, fragrances, furniture, theatrical production and more. In the early 1960s, he began branding his clothing and accessories with his company's logo. This trend was picked up by many other designers from the 1970s onward. Cardin's logos, consisting of his initials or a circular bull's eye, were often three-dimensional vinyl appliqués or quilted directly into the garment.

 

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Helmet with integrated mask

Materials
Wool felt
Year
1966

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Cap with integrated mask

Materials
Wool felt
Year

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Equestrian inspired hat

Materials
Wool felt
Year

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Necklaces

Materials
Metal
Year
1990

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Choker necklace with triangle and circle motif

Materials
Aluminum
Year
1966

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Ankle booties with geometric detail

Materials
Neoprene and rubber
Year
2015

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Ankle booties with geometric detail

Materials
Neoprene and rubber
Year
2015

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Ankle boots

Materials
Leather and suede
Year
1967

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Lace-up boots

Materials
Suede and rubber
Year
1979

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Micro-sequined triangular handbag

Materials
Synthetics
Year
2008

Courtesy of Pierre Cardin

Description

Pierre Cardin, pen and ink sketch

Year
2015

Private collection of Paula Wallace

Pierre Cardin

SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film is honored to feature the designs of the legendary fashion futurist Pierre Cardin in “Pierre Cardin: Pursuit of the Future,” a major retrospective exhibition. A revolutionary force in the fashion industry for seven decades, the indomitable 95-year-old designer continues at the helm of his creative enterprises and has earned numerous accolades for his contributions to fashion and humanitarian causes. In 2008, Cardin was honored with the SCAD Étoile for his contributions to the fields of fashion and design as well as his role in the historic restoration and cultural life of the medieval village of Lacoste, site of the university’s study-abroad location in France.

Best known for his 1960s space-age style, Cardin has pushed the boundaries of fashion by exploring new materials and silhouettes. The exhibition presents iconic looks for both women and men from the 1950s to present, borrowed mainly from the Pierre Cardin Museum in Paris, and includes several dresses from the SCAD Permanent Collection. Cardin has said, "The clothes I prefer are the garments I invent for a lifestyle that does not yet exist — the world of tomorrow." The exhibition celebrates Cardin’s spirit and vision, both unwaveringly inspired by the future.

In addition to his contributions to fashion, Cardin is a design innovator whose pursuits extend to accessories, costume design, jewelry, product design, fragrances, furniture, theatrical production and more. The designer is also recognized as the first haute-couture designer to democratize design; in 1959, Cardin broke from tradition by debuting a runway show of affordable "ready-to-wear" clothes inspired by his couture lines. This move revolutionized the fashion business and made his designs accessible to a modern clientele.

Cardin has been the subject of several major international exhibitions including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York and Victoria & Albert Museum, London, and his garments are in important permanent museum collections worldwide. Three times he has received the prestigious Golden Thimble award for French haute couture, which rewards the most creative collection of the season (1977, 1979, 1982) and was recognized with the Council of Fashion Designer of America Award in 2007. In addition to receiving numerous honors, Cardin was designated UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador and is decorated as a Commander of the Legion of Honor, the highest order of merit given by the president of France for military and civil distinction.

IMAGE: Pierre Cardin, cocktail dresses with conical breasts, 1966. Photo © Archives Pierre Cardin.

Pierre Cardin

A revolutionary force in the fashion industry for seven decades, indomitable 95-year-old designer Pierre Cardin continues at the helm of his creative enterprises and has earned numerous accolades for his contributions to fashion and humanitarian causes. In 2008, Cardin was honored with the SCAD Étoile for his contributions to the fields of fashion and design as well as his role in the historic restoration and cultural life of the medieval village of Lacoste, site of the university's study-abroad location in France. Best known for his 1960s space-age style, Cardin has pushed the boundaries of fashion by exploring new materials and silhouettes. In addition to his contributions to fashion, Cardin is a design innovator whose pursuits extend to accessories, costume design, jewelry, product design, fragrances, furniture, theatrical production and more.

ABOUT        BIO
Unapologetic Lines signature image
Unapologetic Lines

SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film presents the first solo museum exhibition of fashion Illustrator Marc-Antoine Coulon, one of the world's leading fashion artists. The Paris-based artist possesses a glamorous, elegant, timeless and irreverent style. With a great sense of aesthetics and observation, he is able to capture the moment of a model on the runway or a portrait of the many designers and celebrities he encounters. His work expresses a unique, signature style, often with a thick or blurred black line underlining the shape of his subjects, punctuated with washes of color for depth and effect.

"Unapologetic Lines" features a sizable collection of Coulon's work, including captivating portraits of fashion icons Tom Ford, Gianni Versace, Anna Wintour, Madonna and Beyoncé alongside Hollywood royalty Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe, Steve McQueen and Audrey Hepburn, among many others.

The fashion industry is enjoying a renaissance of fashion illustration, and Coulon has taken part in the renewal of the medium. Fashion illustration was found in all fashion magazines and newspapers as the major mode of advertising until it was replaced by photography from the 1960s onward. Recent trends have brought fashion illustration back into vogue with luxury brands.

Funding for this exhibition is provided in part by:

ABOUT        BIO
Marc-Antoine Coulon

Born in 1974, Marc-Antoine Coulon began drawing at a young age. His love of art, fashion and design became the foundation of his professional career, which began in France and Italy where he was an illustrator for the music and movie industries. Coulon has created illustrations for various European and American magazines, including Vogue, Madame Figaro, Elle, L'Officiel de la Mode, Town & Country and InStyle. He has worked with luxury brands Givenchy, John Nollet, Cartier, and Van Cleef and Arpels on advertising campaigns. His work can be seen in various exhibitions from Paris to New York. Coulon currently works and lives in Paris and is represented by Galuchat Agency, Paris.